All information, prices, instructions, and DRC/CAM files are contained in the form below. Please read it carefully.
PCB files and settings have changed.
We currently support settings for three PCB design software packages: Altium Designer Student Edition, KiCad, and Fusion 360/Eagle. Design Rules and CAM processing walkthroughs can be found on
If you plan on using our services long term, we recommend cloning the project so that you can "git pull" future updates. If you only plan on using our services once, feel free to download the entire project as a ".zip"!
See the readme's for guides on how to properly apply design rules and properly generate cam data (manufacturing data). Failure to follow the process will likely result in us being unable to make your board. We know you have class/project deadlines, so if you want to be sure you've done it right come visit us in CB 416 and ask the next available tech for help.
We are focused on rapid prototyping and seek to process boards submitted to us within 1-2 normal semester days. We do not offer plated through-holes. To make soldering easier, we recommend you adjust your board to switch copper sides before the through holes associated with a component.
Current Board Pricing:
Single-sided boards: $0.40/sq. in.
Double-sided boards: $0.80/sq. in.
*This is 1oz copper ~34µm thick on a 1.5mm FR4 substrate
**For RF purposes we ask you to come in and speak to one of the below technicians before submitting your board, or put in all requirements in the "Addition comments" section when submitting.
Techs: Bryce Hamilton
- Currently we only accept *.stl files.
- If this is an issue feel free to come in and we can help convert your project to this file type
- The shop primarily uses two Prusa mini printers. (Build Volume: 180x180x180mm 180mm=7.087in)
- The Shop also has two Raise3D Pro2 printers. 12x12x11.8 in (304.5x304.5x299.5 mm)
- These break often, reach out before submitting a project in this size range or you may need to wait until the printer is fixed.
- We print exclusively in PLA.
- Layer thickness is .05mm—.25mm (Default .20mm)
PLA— strong, harder (and more brittle) than ABS, though printed objects will generally have a glossier look and feel than ABS. With a little more work, PLA can also be sanded and machined. The lower melting temperature of PLA makes it unsuitable for many applications as even parts spending the day in a hot car may droop or deform, however, it can produce much larger prints without warping and requires less support (cheaper per print). Not soluble in acetone.
Softening Temperature: ~140° F
Melting Temperature: ~320° F
PLA costs $0.15/gram
You need to select a fill level for the solid objects. Understand that most projects only require Low levels of infill to be structurally sound.
CUTTING AREA: 22" x 34"
RASTER/ENGRAVING AREA: 22" x 34"
MAX MATERIAL SIZE: 22" x 34"
REQUIRED FILE FORMAT:
- .DXF (2D only)
- .SVG (standard vector file) (preferred)
- .BMP (for image engraving)
Laser cutting costs $.12/min cutting/rastering runtime
NEVER CUT THESE MATERIALS
WARNING: Because many plastics are dangerous to cut, it is important to know what kind you are planning to use.
|PVC/vinyl/artificial leather||Emits chlorine gas when cut!||Don't ever cut this material as it will ruin the optics, cause the metal of the machine to corrode, and ruin the motion control system.|
|Thick ( >1mm ) Polycarbonate/Lexan||Cuts very poorly, discolors, catches fire||Looks identical to acrylic but does not cut or engrave well! Polycarbonate is a different type of polymer that tends to char rather than vaporize.|
|ABS||Melts||Does not cut well. It tends to melt rather than vaporize, and has a higher chance of catching on fire and leaving behind melted gooey deposits on the vector cutting grid. It also does not engrave well (again, tends to melt).|
|HDPE/milk bottle plastic||Catches fire and melts||It melts. It gets gooey. Don't use it.|
|PolyStyrene Foam||Catches fire||It catches fire, it melts, and only thin pieces cut. This is the #1 material that causes laser fires!!!|
|PolyPropylene Foam||Catches fire||Like PolyStyrene, it melts, catches fire, and the melted drops continue to burn and turn into rock-hard drips and pebbles.|
|Fiberglass||Emits fumes||It's a mix of two materials that can’t be cut. Glass (etch, no cut) and epoxy resin (fumes)|
|Coated Carbon Fiber||Emits noxious fumes||A mix of two materials. Thin carbon fiber mat can be cut, with some fraying - but not when coated.|
|Neoprene||Noxious fumes||It can be cut, but produces dirty smoke and noxious gasses|
The laser can cut or etch. The laser can cut materials like wood, paper, cork, and some kinds of plastics. Etching can be done on almost anything, including wood, cardboard, plastic, marble, stone, tile, or glass.
|Many woods||1/4"||Avoid oily/resinous woods||Oily or resinous woods may catch fire.|
|Plywood/Composite woods||1/4"||These contain glue, and may not cut as well as solid wood.|
|MDF/Engineered woods||1/4"||These are okay to use but char more easily when cut.|
|Paper, card stock||thin||Cuts very well on the laser cutter, and also very quickly.|
|Cardboard, carton||thicker||Cuts well but may catch fire.||Watch for fire.|
|Cork||1/4"||Cuts nicely, but the quality of the cut depends on the thickness and quality of the cork. Engineered cork has a lot of glue in it, and may not cut as well.||Avoid thicker cork.|
|Acrylic/Lucite/Plexiglas/PMMA||1/4"||Cuts extremely well.|
|Thin Polycarbonate Sheeting (<1mm)||<1mm||Very thin polycarbonate can be cut, but tends to discolor badly. Extremely thin sheets (0.5mm and less) may cut with yellowed/discolored edges.||Watch for smoking/burning|
|PET film||thin||Cuts OK, but tends to leave smoke marks.|
|Delrin (POM)||thin||Delrin comes in a number of shore strengths (hardness) and the harder Delrin tends to work better.|
|Kapton tape (Polyimide)||1/16"||Works well, in thin sheets and strips like tape.|
|Mylar/Polyester||1/16"||Works well if it's thin. Thick mylar has a tendency to warp, bubble, and curl.||Gold coated mylar won’t cut.|
|Solid Styrene||1/16"||Smokes a lot when cut, but can be cut.||Keep it thin.|
|Polyurethane||thin||Cuts pretty well.|
|Depron foam||1/4"||Used a lot for hobby, RC aircraft, architectural models, and toys. 1/4" cuts nicely, with a smooth edge.||Monitor it constantly.|
|Gator foam/Foam-core||Cuts pretty well, but foam core melts inside at edges||Watch it! – may catch fire.|
|Cloth/felt/hemp/cotton/nylon/polyester/felt/ velcro||All cut well.||No plastic coated or impregnated cloth!|
|Leather/Suede||1/8"||Leather is very hard to cut, but can be if it's thinner than a belt (call it 1/8").||Real leather only! No imitations!|
|Magnetic Sheet||Cuts beautifully.|
|NON-CHLORINE-containing rubber||Fine for cutting.||Check for chlorine!|
|Teflon (PTFE)||thin||https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polymer_fume_fever Make sure the laser is fully vented and exhausted.|
|Carbon fiber without epoxy applied||Can be cut, very slowly.||No coated carbon fiber!|
|Coroplast ('corrugated plastic')||1/4"||Difficult because of the vertical strips, but can be cut (very slowly).|
|Phenolics||1/16”||Tends to char, but cuts OK if thin.|
All the above "cuttable" materials can be etched, in some very deeply.
In addition, you can etch:
|Glass||Green seems to work best...looks sandblasted.||Only FLAT GLASS can be engraved in our cutter. No round or cylindrical items.|
|Anodized aluminum||Vaporizes the anodization away.|
|Painted/coated metals||Vaporizes the paint away.|
|Stone, Marble, Granite, Soapstone, Onyx.||Gets a white "textured" look when etched.|
We have a marking coating called 'cermark'. It must be diluted with ethanol and applied to metal (not ceramics or stone) before being etched to leave behind a semi-permanent dark black mark.